If this hotel were any more waterfront, it would be in the water.
It’s a pretty safe bet they’ve been serving tea at the Horeke pub for nearly 200 years.
The sign out the front mentions only beer, but what homesick missionary, bushman, sailor or ship builder wouldn’t have been hanging out for a nice cup of Rosie Lee to start the day, even if they ended the day with something stronger?
It’s a sultry day in late summer when we visit, the sky and the water both full to bursting. We’re too early for lunch (the pub doesn’t open until 12) so we walk around the harbour, startling the seagulls and annoying the oystercatchers.
The Horeke Hotel has been on the same site since 1826 – 14 years before the signing of Te Tiriti O Waitangi (the Treaty of Waitangi between Maori and Queen Victoria), just 50 years after the signing of the American Declaration of Independence and the same year that Australia got its first street light (in Sydney; it burned whale oil).
Horeke was in the game the following year with 50 men working in the Raine, Ramsay and Browne shipyard, building the schooner Enterprise (1827), the brigantine New Zealander (1828) and the three-masted ship Sir George Murray (1830).
The shipyard site, close to the hotel, was excavated by archaeologists in 2016.
Today, Horeke has a population of fewer than 400 people
My marks out of 10?
Cup 3. Simon Gualt cup and saucer. A bit heavy, but an attempt at doing it right.
Tea 2: Chanui English breakfast. This is hard to score. New barmaid Nicola hasn’t made tea before, and it shows. But on the plus side, she has the gumption to ‘fess up and ask me how it is. I try to be honest but encouraging. She’s made it in the cup and there’s too much milk. However, she listens carefully to my description of how I make tea, and says that’s what she’ll do next time. And the food (pub grub) is delicious.
Setting 10: If you were any more waterfront, you’d be in the water. I can’t help worrying about what will happen to the old hotel as the Hokianga Harbour creeps up as a result of climate change-induced sea-level rise (it’s not just the melting polar caps and glaciers causing the sea to rise; as water gets warmer it expands, a process known as thermal expansion). The hotel itself has been renovated in parts, in a 20-year project by the owners. The bits that haven’t been done-up add to the charm. But for now, to sit in the sun on the deck overlooking the harbour, which on this day is silent and still except for the birds, makes coming so far north worth the while.
Open after 3pm? Yes
Horeke Hotel, 2118 Horeke Road, Horeke, Hokianga Harbour, Northland